Lake Saif ul Mulook: View from The Other Side

NARAN KAGHAN VALLEY : A Serene Stopover Towards North 

Ever since I was a small girl I heard my younger sister talk about a lake in far, far lands - a lake by the name of Saif ul Muluk which, for us at that time was a place not within our reach. Just like the mythical land, Shangri-La mentioned in the famous novel of James Hilton, Lost Horizon, is a place that we could only dream about. Fast forward many years and we end up visiting Naran and Lake Saif ul Muluk countless times. 

This year I had the chance to revisit Naran Valley. It's a place that holds a special place in my heart. The trip was a beautiful journey down the memory lane, but I also had a chance to see how it has changed over time. Naran Valley is one of the most visited tourist destinations in Pakistan. Located at the northwest of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, it is surrounded by the might Himalays and Karakoram mountain ranges. 

The best time to visit Naran Valley is around the summer months from May to September. From October onwards Naran receives heavy snowfall and the roads are not accessible. We visited around mid-June which was ideal as the weather was warm during the day and cold during the night. During the monsoon season from July to September, the weather gets unpredictable. Heavy rain and landsliding are common during these months. It is advisable to check the weather forecast and road conditions before you travel.  

We travelled via the Hazara Motorway also known as M-15 Motorway. Without a doubt, this motorway has significantly reduced the travel time to various tourist destinations. Crossing the tunnels reminded me of the tunnels at Attabad. To avoid traffic we decided to hit the road around 2:00 AM. Of course, the early departure means smooth roads with very little traffic. Therefore we made significant progress towards the destination. 

As you get closer to Kaghan Valley, the view gets majestic. You start seeing mountaintops covered with snow. The breathtaking view sparked a nostalgic feeling. It's very hard to describe, I feel as if the mountains embrace me, welcoming me back. I believe, when you connect with nature, by stepping away from your busy life, nature reciprocates. It rewards you by offering peace of mind, and tranquillity, and bringing back happy memories. Going back to the trip - so I thought it would be "brilliant" to visit Naran Valley on a public holiday. Off course everyone else had the same "genius" idea. We spent a lot of time in a long queue which was exhausting. Lesson learned: avoid crowds like the plague, especially on holidays! Nevertheless, the weather was typical - warm sun, cool shade and freezing temperatures at night: a classic Naran experience. Finally, we checked in at the hotel and had plenty of time to rest and nap. 

The next day, we planned to visit Lake Saif ul Muluk, which is only possible by the very bumpy and thrilling jeep ride! The trip to Lake Saif ul Muluk was more like Lake Shake Your Soul Muluk! Lol! Our teeth rattled more than the jeep did. Just as we thought the jeep ride couldn't get any worse, we were greeted by a traffic jam of jeeps on the mountain. I guess even the mountains have a rush hour now. Thankfully the traffic eventually moved and we arrived at the lake in one piece! 

Somehwere in Mansehra

Kaghan Valley

View from our hotel window

Lake Saif ul Malook and its emerald green color

Rain and hailstorm, enroute

River Kunhar at road level

Hazara Motorway

Kaghan Valley

Serene view of the Kaghan Valley

Solitute..

Unfortunately, the situation at the lake did not change. The beauty of the lake has been compromised over the years by the influx of tourists, vendors, shops and excessive waste. The majority of tourists like to spend time hanging around the bustling area of the lake where the shops are located. Rest of the visitors like to watch the lake from the spillway. I had a different plan in mind. We decided to avoid the crowds and walked all the way to the other side of the lake, where the glacier waters flow into the lake. I think it took us 30 minutes or more (thanks to the Mars chocolate bar I purchased). But it was totally worth it. 

The glacial stream that flows into the lake carries freezing pure water, giving it its stunning turquoise hue. It is during the summer months that these glaciers begin to melt and release the icy water into the lake. As winter draws closer, snowfall blankets the surrounding mountains and eventually reaches the lake itself and transforms it into a winter beauty. Even in such harsh conditions when heavy snowfall cover the lake and Naran, some brave people try to reach the lake on foot. I have seen videos on YouTube of these groups trekking through snow to reach the frozen lake. 

Anyways, once we reached the other side, it was calm and quieter. You could hear the water running into small streams and making their way to the lake. Noise from the popular side was distant and did not interrupt the view. On this side, I could actually connect with nature. I tried to feel the running water which was freezing, you cannot keep your hand underwater for more than a few seconds. Being surrounded by such raw nature made me realise how small and fragile humans are compared to the immense power of nature. It was incredible to see a few people arriving on horseback. The sight on horses against the backdrop of the lake was truly mesmerizing. We spent some time there, simply taking in the natural beauty that surrounded us. As the temperature began to drop we decided to head back to the main side of the lake. On our way, I was really craving the "bhutta" which is local corn baked in sand. It is a popular street food, especially during the winter months. 

A cosy end to a memorabel trip: After a day filled with adventure we were back at the warmth and comfort of our hotel room. As the sun began to set, we sat by the window absorbing as much positivity as possible, soaking up the last bits of our trip. This journey was truely special. I felt as if I was visiting an old friend, a place I've known for years. The lake with its nostelgic charm holds a special place in my heart. I will always look forward to our next visit. 

On our way back, we kept enjoying the Hazara Motorway as it winds its way through Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. What a relief for travellers like us with reduced travel times offering seamless journey. Returning home from a trip like this is always a bittersweet feeling. 

Returning Home: A Bittersweet Feeling : Life takes on a different hue after a trip like this. There's a newfound sense of peace, a refreshed perspective, and a heart full of memories. While we return home, a part of us remains in the places we've explored. It’s a bittersweet feeling, knowing that we’ve gained so much yet left so much behind. A part of our hearts remains there, forever captivated by its magic." 

Best snacks at the lake

Melting glaciers at Lake Saif ul Malook

A home at such a serene place..

Hope you enjoyed this blog. Please do leave your comments and let me know about your experience at Lake Saif ul Malook and Naran Kaghan valley. 

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